I stayed at the Roosevelt Hotel recently for a conference and hope I never have to stay there again. Full review here. Picture above is of the wonderful 19" old school TV they kindly provided me with.
Originally posted 6/10/07
Commentary, criticism and recommendations about anything travel related that pops into my head and sticks.
I stayed at the Roosevelt Hotel recently for a conference and hope I never have to stay there again. Full review here. Picture above is of the wonderful 19" old school TV they kindly provided me with.
Spending a short weekend in Los Angeles visiting family, and taking the opportunity to snap random shots with my Helio [which I highly recommend, by the way]. I wouldn't say these shots are particularly interesting, but we did find a couple of cool things:
- A nice little Italian restaurant called Piccolo Paradiso
- A solid Mexican place in Racho Park called La Serenata de Garibaldi
A colleague at work recently asked for any tips and info we could share from our trip to Peru last summer. Maybe I'll clean up the email I sent her to make it a bit more 'post-worthy', but for the time being just wanted to note that the Miraflores Park Hotel in Lima is something I would certainly recommend. This shot above is from their rooftop level, which has a pool to the left and some pretty cool views of the park and coastline below. We had a buffet breakfast here that very relaxing - which was exactly what we needed.
It is near a very nice shopping center, where we actually had a great dinner at an Argentinian restaurant, the name of which I unfortunately have forgotten.
If you are going to be sitting down to dinner at one of the many outside tables in Condesa you are virtually guaranteed to be approached a couple of times during your meal by folks walking by with miscellaneous goods to sell. These vendors run the gamut. Men selling cell phone holsters. Men selling phone cards. An old guy selling toy violins. Etc.
Then there are the little kids - maybe 5 years old, but maybe not quite. You see them one moment sitting on a corner with a woman who appears to be in her twenties [his mother?] and a younger child [his brother?]. The woman looks like she could be pregnant again. They are eating now, but their wares are at their side, and they'll find you soon. When they do, you see the boy has a platter of magnetic ducks. 10 pesos each. About $0.91. We ended up with 2. One white, one blue.
Two things hit me immediately as our taxi took us from the airport to the hotel. One was the use of color everywhere, the other was the tension between things in decay and things being renovated. This theme was consistent through most of the places we visited, resulting in a series of visually interesting contrasts.
Everything had a sense of energy or progress. It was as if the ongoing, relentless ebb and flow of the city's daily activities were made visible and represented in the external appearances of the buildings, the cars, the signs.
This isn't unlike other cities we have been to [e.g., Lima or Buenos Aires], but we didn't spend enough time in Lima to see if it was something that is widespread, and our sense of Buenos Aires was that it was maybe more common in a couple of neighborhoods [Palermo Viejo, La Boca]. In Mexico City, it seemed to be pervasive - at least through every part we saw.
Originally posted 4/8/07
Now that I'm back in Chicago and semi dug out from / caught up with the work issues I missed while away, I will start capturing some of the things Judy and I did during spring break.
Some top line thoughts:
* Had a great time. Never felt threatened, despite how many people asked us if we were crazy for choosing to vacation in such a notoriously dangerous city.
* Met an unofficial guide who wound up taking us around parts of the city on 3 different days.
* Enjoyed some good food.
* Found the Condesa df to be really inconsistent and somewhat disappointing nevermind what the NYTimes says [more on that later], though the neighborhood was great.
* Will definitely consider going back b/c there are a lot of things we didn't have a chance to do in 5 days.
Just posted our SBXLI pictures on Flickr. This one, for example, is from the NFL Tailgate prior to the game. I was just trying to get a picture of the "Fish Cake Sandwich" sign, [provided by the Hot Dog Cart, of course], when this cat jumped into the frame. Kind of like how it turned out anyway.
Trip was great overall. Rain was a bit of a buzzkill, since we had tremendous seats [14 rows back on the 35 yd line, behind the Bears bench]. But stil, the folks at SI.com put on a first class weekend.
Just randomly saw that Bubo was quickly covered in the NYTimes. Judy and I stopped there while wandering around the city on spring break last year ['06]. Couple of pictures from that pitstop are here, including shots of what we could see from our table outside.
Note: the crusty looking guy in the shot above appeared to be a regular, as he was greeted in a "Norm!"-esque manner. He was also one of the handful of misguided dickheads we've encountered on our vacations who think it's a good ice breaker to shout "konichiwa" at Asians passing by, because clearly all Asians speak Japanese, right? Sure.
After dinner that delayed us more than we expected [quoting the waitress: "there was a problem in the kitchen - don't accuse me" ... actually, this was much more pleasant than it sounds, just comes across funny in translation], our options on what to do at midnight were somewhat limited. But we had 30 minutes to walk up to the top of the hill near Sacre Coeur and get a view of the Eiffel Tower. This shot here shows you we weren't the only people who had that idea. If you're interested in the rest of the shots, start here and work your way through.
Some blurry shots, some repetitive shots, but also a couple of good ones, such as:
* French family lighting sparklers
* Our view of the Eiffel Tower with the spotlight pointed straight at us
* Some of the amateur pyrotechnics that were going off all over the place
* A sense of the communal revelry
* A minor drunken misunderstanding
* And among it all, a respect for keeping things neat
Would have been smart of me to bring the video camera along to truly capture the sounds and sights of people setting off the bottle rockets, shouting "bonne annee!" etc., but I left it in the apartment. Sweet.
Also from the 29th, as we made our way to dinner at an Indian restaurant in the Saint Georges area of the 9th arrondissement. This view is uphill, toward Montmartre. The white dome on the horizon is Sacre Coeur.
This is from the 29th, when we walked from the Eiffel Tower over to the Palais de Tokyo, which is across the river and a bit east of the tower. Hadn't seen it from this angle before, and we caught it during one of its illuminated times (every hour, I think; maybe every 1/2 hour). Red lights behind Judy are cars passing by during the shot.
Deciding to try something new, we headed out to the 11th arrondissement to see what we'd find and try something different. Good news - we did indeed try something different.
Other news - it wasn't terrific.
We must have passed 10 - 15 restaurants as we walked around Rue Oberkampf and Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud. Many of them looked nice [even nicer on the walk back to the Menilmontant metro stop after our dinner at Ile de Goree]. But we didn't stop at any of them. While I couldn't translate the entirety of menus posted in the windows, I could pick up that they had duck [canard], foie gras, rabbit [lapin], etc., and pretty much assumed it wasn't going to be right for us.
When we stopped to check the menu of Ile de Goree, the manager/owner appeared on the other side of the window, wiping away the condensation that somewhat obstructed our view. And he did this with a big welcoming smile, and we were suckered in.
They had little english, I had little french, but we managed to order. Judy liked her shrimp [surprise], my beef and potatoes dish was alright, and the wine was fine. Not terrible, but definitely not the best way we could have spent the money.
Most of what was in the store was either too big and crazy to even try to bring back [see around Judy here], or just random and useless. But this thing struck us as cool and worth trying to lug home. According to the shopkeeper, it's a "pre 1960" Islamic home altar to which Muslims can pray. Well, we certainly would have different intent for it in our house, and we were assurred that all of these pieces are cleansed before they are sold/transferred [seemed like this guy buys estate lots or something]. Rationale for the cleansing, which is done by leaving it out in the sun [again, according to the shopkeeper] is because people don't want any vibes - good or bad - to move from house to house. So even if the new owner was going to use the piece for the same purpose, it would be cleansed before being transferred. I want to believe him, so I do believe him. Hopefully it won't turn out to be any kind of bad mojo, a la the Brady Bunch / Tabu deal.
Another relatively low key day here. After breakfast at the apartment and a semi disappointing visit to Maison Europeene de la Photographie where the most interesting stuff to me was a series by Eva Frapiccini, we walked toward Les Halles. On our way we spotted this sign, which was tucked within a side alley within an alley [see the view from inside this alley]. Although you can't really tell by looking at this shot, it was strangely similar to the entry of the place where we picked some cool things up in San Telmo, so we were sucked in.
This kind of thing is what absorbed most of our waking time yesterday [12/27].
Pretty much an entirely nocturnal day, as we left the apartment around 5pm today. Catching up on some rest after all the walking around. Walked up the hill to Place du Terte [the main tourist square in Montmartre] then down the hill toward the neighborhood where we've stayed previously. Took a few pictures, stopped in a few shops, etc. Just relaxing for the most part.
Not especially clear, but all those people in front of the building are skating.
Hotel de Ville, aka Paris City Hall, at night. Next post will show [kind of] the ice skating rink that is set up in front of it.
And this is the living room, from which we can see those two restaurants in the previous entries. Exciting.
This is the view from the living room in the other direction. Restaurant in view is Sourire de Saigon, which I think might be something like Saigon's Smile. Looks good, we'll probably try it before we split.
Just a shot off to the right out our living room window. Restaurant is Le Coin Des Amis [roughly, Friends' Corner', I believe]. Haven't tried it yet.
While there definitely were plenty of restaurants open - Japanese ones, in particular, were all open - we opted for dinner in. Grabbed some pasta, prosciutto and vegetables from a market down the street, along with a bottle of totally non-descript bordeaux. The one bonus was dessert - we picked up what I think officially qualifies as a yule log [clarifcation: this is someone else's yule log, standing in as a proxy for ours, which we dug into right away without bothering to photograph ... maybe next time].
The woman at the boulangerie/patisserie was friendly enough, which I appreciated - bearing with my minimal/non-existent french-speaking capabilities. I think I've landed on a decent new approach for getting by in shops without any real french. It goes like this:
's'il vous plait ... parlez vous anglais?' 4 out of 5 times this will prompt either a 'oui' or even an 'of course', in which case we're off and running. However, a few times I've gotten an unsure 'c'est depends' or 'un petit peu', in which case I follow with what I hope to be a disarming, empathy-eliciting 'je vais essayer en francais, mais je ne parle bien' ... then I just really start pointing ... je voudrais cette ... et aussi cette, etc. Anyway, the woman seemed to give me the credit for giving it a shot and adopted the demeanor of someone who is ready to deal with a 'slow' person - think the scene from Can't Buy Me Love where the girls at the dance see Patrick Dempsey doing the African Anteater dance, and declare "aww, he must be in special ed".
Also, I suppose the fact that we're getting ready to spend money doesn't hurt either.
While there weren't as many stores open as I thought there would be, Le Marais did seem to have more activity going on than our neighborhood [Montmartre], and everyone apparently was looking to eat. Every time we stopped to check for a table in a cafe or restaurant, they were all jammed - so we carried on.
This shot here catches our call home. I was actually just aiming for the blue door in the background, but Judy kept wandering into my shot.
Two years ago we stepped into this restaurant for a moment. Actually sat down and had menus, I think, but bailed and went to La Mere Catherine instead. Great call. This place felt kind of like a hybrid rest stop/beer garden ... not that there's anything wrong with that.
Judy and I had dinner here two years ago on Christmas Eve and decided we'd come back this time, too. Got here a little earlier this year [around 10pm vs after 11 last time]. Recognized at least one waitress from previous visit. Think the piano player and chanteuse were the same as well.
Sat in a back room and it was pretty full - with most tables full of French-speaking guests, which was kind of surprising as I had expected a greater tourist ratio. Feels a little bit similar to maybe Cheers [aka Bull & Finch] in Boston used to feel, or how Butch McGuire's in Chicago can feel - definitely draws some tourists, but also has a strong contingent of locals.
Could be the location, the time, or any other intangible variable, but the ravioli au fromage and la soupe a l'oignon are amazing. Also tried a dish called millefeuilles de chevre [sp?], or tomatoes with goat cheese mousse - really, really good.
Ordered a modest bottle of Bordeaux, then noticed virtually every other table had a Beaujolais - note to self: mimic the locals, as they surely know better than I do. But then, the Bordeaux was fine.