Friday, July 6, 2012

Quick Review: Saks, Mexico City


If you are in Mexico City on a Saturday you should consider making the trip down to San Ángel. It's a great area to walk around, relax and shop. According to TripAdvisor, Bazar del Sábado is the #1 shopping option in the city. I certainly don't have the breadth of shopping experience to weigh in on its absolute rank but I can say we've been there twice and thoroughly enjoyed it both times.

And when it's time to refuel, Saks hits the spot.

Chile Relleno @ Saks
Chile Relleno

Given its premier location in a tourist hot spot, you might expect Saks to slack on quality of food and service. But it doesn't. And I find that to be pretty amazing.

Enchiladas con pollo
Enchiladas con pollo

My wife and I were fortunate enough to snag a table outside so we could continue people watching and soaking in the atmosphere.

Cuban band @ Saks
Live music - Cuban band

Not only was the band genuinely very good, it was nice that they didn't follow each set with an awkward round of pass the hat and 'buy our cd' sales pitches. Not that there is anything wrong with that. But on a pleasant, leisurely Saturday it's nice to know that Saks is apparently paying the band enough for their performance that they don't need to hustle around the dining room interrupting meals for tips.

Bag rack
Handy purse rack

Couple of quick tips: (1) The patio umbrellas will keep you dry during a light rain. We sat right through a decent passing shower. So don't let a threat of rain drive you to pick a table inside. (2) The little bag racks are a nice touch. The wife could use a couple of these to organize the litter or purses that have multiplied like rabbits around our condo.

Links:
* Check out this NYTimes article from January 1989.
* Fodor's call's Bazar del Sábado a 'must'.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Quick Review: Coco Boutique Hotel, Santo Domingo

Considering how well the folks running the Coco Boutique Hotel treated us and how much we enjoyed our brief stopover with them in Santo Domingo (April 2009), I am inexcusably tardy in posting some sort of positive review of our experience there. However, judging by their inclusion in the TripAdvisor 2012 Best Hotels list, they've done just fine without me weighing in yet.

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Exterior of Coco Boutique Hotel

Though the location is fantastically convenient in the Zona Colonial, very close to Parque Colon, it is a little bit difficult to find. Once you get there, though, it is worth the journey.

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Bar / public computer (off to right of the liquor cabinet), Coco Boutique Hotel

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Interior, lower level Coco Boutique Hotel

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Stairwell up to the rooms, Coco Boutique Hotel

One thing to keep in mind is the twisting wooden stairwell that takes you up to your room. If you're smart, you won't be traveling with multiple heavy suitcases in the first place. But if you do have something heavy to lug, they have young strong staff to help you out.

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Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

The rooms are fairly simple. And sadly my pictures don't do them justice. One key thing to note is they do not have a/c, but they do have some seriously heavy duty ceiling fans cranking.

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Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

Another thing you'll want to know is they don't have TVs in the rooms. We didn't miss it. What you get at the Coco Boutique hotel a comfortable place to sleep at night, get ready in the morning and maybe take a short siesta in the afternoon.

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Bathroom of Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

Coco boutique - bathroom
Bathroom of Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

We found the fact that the room wasn't an over the top air conditioned oasis was a helpful extra nudge to get us out doing what we should be doing anyway -- savoring the passage of an an afternoon into evening with a cold beer and some nice olives at the cafe around the corner.

Cafe @ parque colon
Leisure time @ cafe in Parque Colon, Santo Domingo

Or pop up to the rooftop area of the hotel for some late night fresh air. We grabbed a couple of beers from the bar and watched a dvd on our laptop. Nice way to wind down the night before bed. I guess I was too focused on relaxing with my beer to get any pictures of that, but you can see the rooftop area in the photogallery on their website.

Bottom line - should I ever be going through Santo Domingo again, Coco Boutique Hotel would be on the very short list of places I'd want to stay.




Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Review: Hotel Nacional de Cuba: Part I - The Rooms

On our first trip to La Habana (March 2008) we arrived at Hotel Nacional de Cuba a bit after midnight local time. We had navigated customs, collected our luggage, successfully taken a taxi to the hotel. All little things that in any other country you take for granted. But in Cuba each of these carried the stress of the unknown and operating without a safety net. So it was late, and we were equal parts tired and relieved at having cleared the potential landmines at HAV. But we didn't know what the Hotel Nacional held in store for us. Online reviews repeatedly warned of tired furnishings and service that could be indifferent at best. The woman who 'greeted' us at registration checked us into room 267, which was a standard room. Two double beds. Old furniture. Old, thin, office grade carpeting and a view of the parking lot. We'd be here for 4 nights. I had to try and see if we could do better than this. I went back downstairs and politely asked if there were any alternatives available. The front desk agent let us know that a one bedroom suite could be had, but it would be an extra 50 CUC per night. I had pre-paid the hotel stay through a travel agent outside the U.S. And this 200 CUC upgrade fee would chew up a not insignificant fraction of our walking around money. But room 267 sucked. I thanked the desk agent for her trouble of checking us in twice (doesn't hurt to be overly nice and appreciative), then handed over the 200 CUC.

This was easily a top 5 all time vacation decision.

Here's Judy's reaction when we opened up room 439 @ roughly 1am.

Judy's reaction to our room upgrade @ hotel nacional

Furniture and carpeting were still dated. But we now had king size bed in a massive two-room suite. Each room had views onto the malecón and the water beyond.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional - havana

Unfortunately the first few shots I took were with my Helio Ocean, which actually had a decent camera for a back-in-the-day phone. But the on/off the plane experience reset my default resolution to 320x240, so all I have of those first jubilant moments in room 439 are teeny postage stamp size images that feel like they are from a million years ago.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional - havana

The bathroom in room 267 must have been pretty lousy as I was clearly excited to document how awesome I thought this one was.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional - havana

It was by no means perfect. But if you have read any guide book or any tripadvisor reviews you knew to leave your luxury expectations stateside.

For example, the shower in the tub needed to be jerry-rigged a bit with a towel in order for the showerhead to aim the water at you, not the wall. And those vertical blinds would slap around pretty crazily with the amazing cross breezes you get when you open up all the various windows you have in this room (small price to pay in my opinion, for those amazing breezes; plus, I found a way to tie them back before too long.)

Bathroom rm 439 of hotel nacional - havana

TV was modest, especially since it's a good 15 feet from the head of the bed. But, you're not in La Habana to watch a lot of tv, are you?

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional

All of these shots are just of the bedroom.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional

Somehow I managed not to take any shots (or have lost the shots I took) of the 'sitting room' that was on the other side. Had its own TV, big windows looking out to the water. Really amazing space.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional de cuba

View from the sitting room, facing west.

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Sunrise seen from the bedroom window, facing east toward Habana Vieja.

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So when we came back in 2009, I asked for room 439 again. And somewhat miraculously, we were able to get it. Had to spend one night in a random room before it became available. But some charm and determination with the front desk got us in there for the final 4 nights of our second stay in La Habana.

My advice is if you can comfortably handle the extra 50 CUC per night, go for the 1 bedroom suite rooms. It's roughly a 20% price hike over the standard double room, but it is a infinitely superior space. You cannot beat the corner configuration of room 439 with windows on each wall that provide both amazing views and refreshing breezes at virtually all hours.

One detail to note, though, is time of year may impact how much space you get with these rooms. We stayed twice in March and once in December, over the Christmas / New Year's week. While March is busy, December is jammed. So in December they consolidate rooms a bit and room 439 does not include the extra sitting room. That is apparently rented out separately.

Fast forward to 2011

When we returned during Christmas / New Year's week of 2011 we once again requested room 439. Upon arrival at registration we learned that we had reserved a one bedroom suite on the executive floor. Sounded okay, but with room 439 we knew what we would be getting. Would this executive floor room be at least as good as that?

Short answer: yes.

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We got room 809/810. And now I think we have a new favorite room @ HNC.

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All the space of 439, but with more recently updated furnishings.

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Fully functional shower that needed no MacGyver tactics to aim the water stream.

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The second 'sitting' room was included.

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With its own flat screen tv and second bathroom (not shown).

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And we were assigned an exceptionally friendly and upbeat camarera, who left us those little towel origami-like creatures that you hear about on TripAdvisor.

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The only downside of this room compared to 439 was the view. It was in a different tower, so our sightlines were facing a bit more east than northeast. Which means our direct shot was these neighboring buildings.

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But, if you leaned out the window you could still get your water view fix taken care of.

hotel nacional rm 809/810



Sunday, July 1, 2012

Quick Review: W Mexico City

W Mexico City exterior
After a 2006 stay at the Condesa df that was mixed at best, we decided to cash in some Starwood points and check out the W Mexico City on our next two visits. This review is based on 6 nights over 3 short stays between December 2011 and March 2012.

The greeting in the lobby is prompt and sharp. The entire staff is bilingual and willing to either indulge your attempts en Español or let you off the hook and roll en Inglés if you need it.

W Mexico City- Rm 1502
The rooms we stayed in (1502, 1909 and 1409) were all Fantastic Suites. They were indeed fantastic.

W Mexico City rm 1909

Sleek and comfortable. For the most part anyway. That circular shower set right in the middle of the room is probably an instance of substance being subordinated to style. But I'll concede it's kind of cool.

W Mexico City rm 1909

Friendly greeting with chocolates and bottled water was appreciated.

W Mexico City welcome treats

Room service was friendly, prompt and tasty. We had one issue where an order just really didn't hit the mark, so we called down to let them know. It was removed from the bill immediately and our replacement dish was up in our room within 10 minutes. Then the manager called after the replacement was delivered to apologize and confirm everything was alright. Solid comeback service after the initial disappointment.

Room Service @ W

Views were pretty stellar in every direction.

W Mexico City rm 1909 vista de la bandera mexicana

Having a balcony that we could open the room up to was terrific. I love access to fresh air in a hotel room.

Room 1409

And the floor to ceiling windows made for great viewing of both the setting sun and the neighborhood lights at night.

W Mexico City rm 1409 - Anochecer

Vista de noche

Location is great if you want to base in Polanco (and it's just a quick walk over to Dulce Patria). I do prefer the vibe and greater walkability of Condesa. But at the W you are definitely within easy walking distance of shops and restaurants. The closest metro stop, Auditorio, is a bit of a hike, but still doable.

We did not dine in the restaurant so I cannot comment on how that is (room was so pleasant we just kept having room service brought up). But the gym is decent. Not too big, but it wasn't overrun either.

Pro tip: when you do want to head out to Condesa or perhaps San Angel, rather than take one of the cars in the hotel drive, walk down the block a bit and flag a taxi on the street. It will cost half to one-third the price.

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Quick Review: Dulce Patria, Ciudad de Mexico

Dulce Patria was a great recommendation from the concierge @ the W Mexico City. My wife and I were just in town for an overnight stop before continuing on to Havana in the morning. After a somewhat long day of travel (car to ORD, wait around, flight to ATL, connect, flight to MEX, go through customs, taxi to hotel in evening rush hour traffic), we needed dinner. And we had just a few key criteria in picking a place. It had to be close, and had to be relaxing. Dulce Patria fit the bill.

Dulce Patria Mexico City, exterior view The walk is 5, maybe 8 minutes through Parque Lincoln and a block or two of the sleek Polanco neighborhood. First impression of the restaurant is its sharp, contemporary exterior. It was pretty quiet when we walked in @ 7:45 on a Tuesday night the week leading up to Christmas. By the time we left ~9:15 it was buzzing. Since we had to be back @ MEX ~8am we were not ashamed to be eating so 'early'.

The first thing we noticed inside was the service. It was team service. Like SWAT team service. Every glass, utensil and napkin was placed, replaced, adjusted, etc. seemingly every minute. Honestly it was almost too much. One of the servers literally swooped in and moved my knife a millimeter back into its proper position after I had accidentally nudged it while putting my drink back down. If these guys were getting paid by the touch, they were racking up the pesos. On the positive side, one of them was quick to advise my wife about not leaving her purse on the heated floor and brought over a stool for her to rest it on. Good call, since we weren't expecting a heated floor. Especially since the air temp outside was probably ~70F.

Maybe anything would have tasted great after a long travel day, but the horchata con mezcal was amazing. It was like a rather sophisticated adult milk shake. Tasty.

Dulce Patria

Food was mostly good. Los antojitos (the starters) we tried were mixed. The quesadillas (which are more like empanadas in Mexico and I need to remember this because I've ordered them more than once expecting US style quesadillas) with huitlacoche were nice. The corn dish, esquites, was less pleasing. I like corn. A lot. It's very hard to serve me something corn based and have it not be a raving success. The esquites here were just okay. But as I've learned since esquites is a dish that lends itself to customization and interpretation (perhaps similar to how every has their own custom mac and cheese recipe). So try esquites if you see it on the menu. Just maybe don't try it @ Dulce Patria.

Dulce Patria antojitos esquites y empanadas de huitlacoche

For my entree I went with a enchiladas con platanos en mole, which were very flavorful and rich. That richness could have used a bit more citrus or something to balance it out and break things up a bit. But on pure flavor, I'd get those enchiladas again.

Dulce Patria

Links: Reviews on TripAdvisor
DulcePatria website which is honestly kind of useless as of the date of this posting.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Quick Review: Edgewater Beach Cafe (Chicago)

Inexplicably and inexcusably it took us over 9 years to try this place even though we live no more than 100 yards away. A couple weeks ago we finally had circumstances align for what we hoped would be perfect trial conditions : a snowy Friday night when we could make the short walk over here, grab a window table inside this allegedly quaint neighborhood place and have a nice meal while enjoying the picturesque wintry scene outside.

Maybe we had built up our expectations too much, but the actual experience left us feeling only okay.

First, and through no fault of the restaurant, the view of the snowstorm through their windows wasn't that great. Streetlight glare plus exterior building light glare just kind of washed it all out. So much for that.

Focusing on the food, service and atmosphere, then, here's my take:

Atmosphere was pretty sleepy. This wasn't one of the live performance nights, so it was just the three or four quiet tables eating in a mostly quiet room.

Service was pretty helpful. One guy seemed to be running the whole show, waiting on the tables and handling the bar orders. He was friendly.

Food was good. The menu is limited and the prices aren't inexpensive, so the food quality is a make or break element here. My wife enjoyed her shrimp cachonette and tournedos of beef. My onion soup gratinee and filet mignon were tasty too.

Bottom line, though, is if I'm going to spend $130 for dinner in Edgewater, I'm going to head over to Francesca's. Twice. I'm glad I tried EBC, but it's hard to justify the premium prices unless you really, really value a dark, extremely quiet atmosphere.

Quick Review: Trump Hotel (Vegas)

Disclaimer: I'm not a Vegas guy. Not a big gambler, not a seen-and-be-seen kind of person. View my review through that lens.

Great room. I completely prefer rooms with a kitchenette or at least a fridge. And since I was here for 4 nights, the set up at the trump was key. Fridge, sink, stove top if you want it and microwave. Beyond that the room is also a nice space, with a comfortable bed and good work area. As mentioned by at least one other reviewer, the shower door situation is a little funky. That probably could have been designed better.

Great fitness center. There are a number of treadmills facing the pool area and a decent assortment of machines, too.

Super convenient to be across from that mall. Walk through Nordstrom and you've got yourself a Chipotle no more than 300 yards from front door of the hotel.

Short walk to El Segundo Sol and StripBurger.

Short taxi lines. I was here 4 nights and in and out multiple times per day. Never had to wait more than 2 minutes for a taxi. During CES.

Only issue I had was upon check in. I made my reservation through http://Booking.com and had adjusted the original reservation by adding a day. Even though I'd done this at least four or five days before my arrival it wasn't picked up in 'their system'. So I had to stand there while the desk guy called and faxed (yes, faxed) someone a copy of my http://booking.com confirmation. Kind of a drag after flying across the country, but in the end it all got sorted.

Quick Review: Pasteur (Chicago)

Saturday night @ 7:45. Place was packed. Unfortunately, their computer system wasn't working so everything was s-l-o-w-e-d down considerably. But we'll call that a growing pains fluke.

Interior is really well done. Immediately transports you far away from Edgewater. Decor is sophisticated. And whether it was intentional or just a lucky outcome, the acoustics are kind of amazing. Tables are pretty close together and on this busy night it was loud. But somehow my wife and I could talk with each other comfortably and not feel like we were hearing everything being said at the tables on either side of us, which is no little detail in my world.

Food was strong.

Apps: Fried chicken dumplings were delicious, vegetable tofu rolls were interesting (touch of mango works wonders here). One regret - why no sticky rice?

Entrees: Beef curry was a great balance of heat and sweet; Pasteur beef steak was a hit, too.

Also, they have a Lebanese red wine available by the glass. It's a little lightweight / thin, but I appreciate the opportunity to try a Lebanese red wine nonetheless - that wasn't something I expected when I walked in the door.
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