Friday, July 6, 2012

Quick Review: Saks, Mexico City


If you are in Mexico City on a Saturday you should consider making the trip down to San Ángel. It's a great area to walk around, relax and shop. According to TripAdvisor, Bazar del Sábado is the #1 shopping option in the city. I certainly don't have the breadth of shopping experience to weigh in on its absolute rank but I can say we've been there twice and thoroughly enjoyed it both times.

And when it's time to refuel, Saks hits the spot.

Chile Relleno @ Saks
Chile Relleno

Given its premier location in a tourist hot spot, you might expect Saks to slack on quality of food and service. But it doesn't. And I find that to be pretty amazing.

Enchiladas con pollo
Enchiladas con pollo

My wife and I were fortunate enough to snag a table outside so we could continue people watching and soaking in the atmosphere.

Cuban band @ Saks
Live music - Cuban band

Not only was the band genuinely very good, it was nice that they didn't follow each set with an awkward round of pass the hat and 'buy our cd' sales pitches. Not that there is anything wrong with that. But on a pleasant, leisurely Saturday it's nice to know that Saks is apparently paying the band enough for their performance that they don't need to hustle around the dining room interrupting meals for tips.

Bag rack
Handy purse rack

Couple of quick tips: (1) The patio umbrellas will keep you dry during a light rain. We sat right through a decent passing shower. So don't let a threat of rain drive you to pick a table inside. (2) The little bag racks are a nice touch. The wife could use a couple of these to organize the litter or purses that have multiplied like rabbits around our condo.

Links:
* Check out this NYTimes article from January 1989.
* Fodor's call's Bazar del Sábado a 'must'.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Quick Review: Coco Boutique Hotel, Santo Domingo

Considering how well the folks running the Coco Boutique Hotel treated us and how much we enjoyed our brief stopover with them in Santo Domingo (April 2009), I am inexcusably tardy in posting some sort of positive review of our experience there. However, judging by their inclusion in the TripAdvisor 2012 Best Hotels list, they've done just fine without me weighing in yet.

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Exterior of Coco Boutique Hotel

Though the location is fantastically convenient in the Zona Colonial, very close to Parque Colon, it is a little bit difficult to find. Once you get there, though, it is worth the journey.

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Bar / public computer (off to right of the liquor cabinet), Coco Boutique Hotel

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Interior, lower level Coco Boutique Hotel

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Stairwell up to the rooms, Coco Boutique Hotel

One thing to keep in mind is the twisting wooden stairwell that takes you up to your room. If you're smart, you won't be traveling with multiple heavy suitcases in the first place. But if you do have something heavy to lug, they have young strong staff to help you out.

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Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

The rooms are fairly simple. And sadly my pictures don't do them justice. One key thing to note is they do not have a/c, but they do have some seriously heavy duty ceiling fans cranking.

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Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

Another thing you'll want to know is they don't have TVs in the rooms. We didn't miss it. What you get at the Coco Boutique hotel a comfortable place to sleep at night, get ready in the morning and maybe take a short siesta in the afternoon.

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Bathroom of Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

Coco boutique - bathroom
Bathroom of Black Vanilla room, Coco Boutique Hotel

We found the fact that the room wasn't an over the top air conditioned oasis was a helpful extra nudge to get us out doing what we should be doing anyway -- savoring the passage of an an afternoon into evening with a cold beer and some nice olives at the cafe around the corner.

Cafe @ parque colon
Leisure time @ cafe in Parque Colon, Santo Domingo

Or pop up to the rooftop area of the hotel for some late night fresh air. We grabbed a couple of beers from the bar and watched a dvd on our laptop. Nice way to wind down the night before bed. I guess I was too focused on relaxing with my beer to get any pictures of that, but you can see the rooftop area in the photogallery on their website.

Bottom line - should I ever be going through Santo Domingo again, Coco Boutique Hotel would be on the very short list of places I'd want to stay.




Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Review: Hotel Nacional de Cuba: Part I - The Rooms

On our first trip to La Habana (March 2008) we arrived at Hotel Nacional de Cuba a bit after midnight local time. We had navigated customs, collected our luggage, successfully taken a taxi to the hotel. All little things that in any other country you take for granted. But in Cuba each of these carried the stress of the unknown and operating without a safety net. So it was late, and we were equal parts tired and relieved at having cleared the potential landmines at HAV. But we didn't know what the Hotel Nacional held in store for us. Online reviews repeatedly warned of tired furnishings and service that could be indifferent at best. The woman who 'greeted' us at registration checked us into room 267, which was a standard room. Two double beds. Old furniture. Old, thin, office grade carpeting and a view of the parking lot. We'd be here for 4 nights. I had to try and see if we could do better than this. I went back downstairs and politely asked if there were any alternatives available. The front desk agent let us know that a one bedroom suite could be had, but it would be an extra 50 CUC per night. I had pre-paid the hotel stay through a travel agent outside the U.S. And this 200 CUC upgrade fee would chew up a not insignificant fraction of our walking around money. But room 267 sucked. I thanked the desk agent for her trouble of checking us in twice (doesn't hurt to be overly nice and appreciative), then handed over the 200 CUC.

This was easily a top 5 all time vacation decision.

Here's Judy's reaction when we opened up room 439 @ roughly 1am.

Judy's reaction to our room upgrade @ hotel nacional

Furniture and carpeting were still dated. But we now had king size bed in a massive two-room suite. Each room had views onto the malecón and the water beyond.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional - havana

Unfortunately the first few shots I took were with my Helio Ocean, which actually had a decent camera for a back-in-the-day phone. But the on/off the plane experience reset my default resolution to 320x240, so all I have of those first jubilant moments in room 439 are teeny postage stamp size images that feel like they are from a million years ago.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional - havana

The bathroom in room 267 must have been pretty lousy as I was clearly excited to document how awesome I thought this one was.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional - havana

It was by no means perfect. But if you have read any guide book or any tripadvisor reviews you knew to leave your luxury expectations stateside.

For example, the shower in the tub needed to be jerry-rigged a bit with a towel in order for the showerhead to aim the water at you, not the wall. And those vertical blinds would slap around pretty crazily with the amazing cross breezes you get when you open up all the various windows you have in this room (small price to pay in my opinion, for those amazing breezes; plus, I found a way to tie them back before too long.)

Bathroom rm 439 of hotel nacional - havana

TV was modest, especially since it's a good 15 feet from the head of the bed. But, you're not in La Habana to watch a lot of tv, are you?

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional

All of these shots are just of the bedroom.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional

Somehow I managed not to take any shots (or have lost the shots I took) of the 'sitting room' that was on the other side. Had its own TV, big windows looking out to the water. Really amazing space.

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional

Rm 439 @ hotel nacional de cuba

View from the sitting room, facing west.

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Sunrise seen from the bedroom window, facing east toward Habana Vieja.

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So when we came back in 2009, I asked for room 439 again. And somewhat miraculously, we were able to get it. Had to spend one night in a random room before it became available. But some charm and determination with the front desk got us in there for the final 4 nights of our second stay in La Habana.

My advice is if you can comfortably handle the extra 50 CUC per night, go for the 1 bedroom suite rooms. It's roughly a 20% price hike over the standard double room, but it is a infinitely superior space. You cannot beat the corner configuration of room 439 with windows on each wall that provide both amazing views and refreshing breezes at virtually all hours.

One detail to note, though, is time of year may impact how much space you get with these rooms. We stayed twice in March and once in December, over the Christmas / New Year's week. While March is busy, December is jammed. So in December they consolidate rooms a bit and room 439 does not include the extra sitting room. That is apparently rented out separately.

Fast forward to 2011

When we returned during Christmas / New Year's week of 2011 we once again requested room 439. Upon arrival at registration we learned that we had reserved a one bedroom suite on the executive floor. Sounded okay, but with room 439 we knew what we would be getting. Would this executive floor room be at least as good as that?

Short answer: yes.

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We got room 809/810. And now I think we have a new favorite room @ HNC.

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All the space of 439, but with more recently updated furnishings.

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Fully functional shower that needed no MacGyver tactics to aim the water stream.

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The second 'sitting' room was included.

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With its own flat screen tv and second bathroom (not shown).

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And we were assigned an exceptionally friendly and upbeat camarera, who left us those little towel origami-like creatures that you hear about on TripAdvisor.

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The only downside of this room compared to 439 was the view. It was in a different tower, so our sightlines were facing a bit more east than northeast. Which means our direct shot was these neighboring buildings.

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But, if you leaned out the window you could still get your water view fix taken care of.

hotel nacional rm 809/810



Sunday, July 1, 2012

Quick Review: W Mexico City

W Mexico City exterior
After a 2006 stay at the Condesa df that was mixed at best, we decided to cash in some Starwood points and check out the W Mexico City on our next two visits. This review is based on 6 nights over 3 short stays between December 2011 and March 2012.

The greeting in the lobby is prompt and sharp. The entire staff is bilingual and willing to either indulge your attempts en Español or let you off the hook and roll en Inglés if you need it.

W Mexico City- Rm 1502
The rooms we stayed in (1502, 1909 and 1409) were all Fantastic Suites. They were indeed fantastic.

W Mexico City rm 1909

Sleek and comfortable. For the most part anyway. That circular shower set right in the middle of the room is probably an instance of substance being subordinated to style. But I'll concede it's kind of cool.

W Mexico City rm 1909

Friendly greeting with chocolates and bottled water was appreciated.

W Mexico City welcome treats

Room service was friendly, prompt and tasty. We had one issue where an order just really didn't hit the mark, so we called down to let them know. It was removed from the bill immediately and our replacement dish was up in our room within 10 minutes. Then the manager called after the replacement was delivered to apologize and confirm everything was alright. Solid comeback service after the initial disappointment.

Room Service @ W

Views were pretty stellar in every direction.

W Mexico City rm 1909 vista de la bandera mexicana

Having a balcony that we could open the room up to was terrific. I love access to fresh air in a hotel room.

Room 1409

And the floor to ceiling windows made for great viewing of both the setting sun and the neighborhood lights at night.

W Mexico City rm 1409 - Anochecer

Vista de noche

Location is great if you want to base in Polanco (and it's just a quick walk over to Dulce Patria). I do prefer the vibe and greater walkability of Condesa. But at the W you are definitely within easy walking distance of shops and restaurants. The closest metro stop, Auditorio, is a bit of a hike, but still doable.

We did not dine in the restaurant so I cannot comment on how that is (room was so pleasant we just kept having room service brought up). But the gym is decent. Not too big, but it wasn't overrun either.

Pro tip: when you do want to head out to Condesa or perhaps San Angel, rather than take one of the cars in the hotel drive, walk down the block a bit and flag a taxi on the street. It will cost half to one-third the price.
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