Review: La Cocina de Frida (Chicago)

Just seated - which was as good as it was going to get tonight

Note: this also appears with my reviews over on Yelp.

Unrealized potential. That's how I'd sum up La Cocina de Frida. We wanted to like it, but across the board it fell a bit short of expectations. This place should be good but isn't.

Space


Nice room, but could use some fans

It's nice inside, but on a night when it was mid 70s outside and the dining room was full, it seemed hot and stuffy. The air was thick. They need ceiling fans. So we waited for a table on the covered patio, which is the highlight of the place. There's nice spacing among the tables, soft lighting and an interesting water element involving a copper tube with multiple punctures that, depending upon your tastes and disposition, is either clever or tacky (I am inclined to call it clever).


The patio - Frida's redeeming feature

Service
They were over matched. I'd suggest they consider closing off a section or two and serving 20 tables well rather than serving 40 tables poorly. Their small, 3 or 4 man kitchen and handful of servers were so obviously in the weeds it was sad. Everything was very slow. Our server was repeatedly apologetic in an awkwardly desperate kind of way as we both knew there was really nothing she could do. The ship was going down.


Help - we're drowning

Food


Chuletas de Puerco Manchamanteles - almost good

A mixed bag and ultimately not very inspiring. I find myself trying very hard to come up with positives. The menu is limited, but their 'as you like it' enchilada options might be great for someone who is confident mixing and matching fillings. I wasn't feeling that confident, so I went with las chuletas de puerco manchamanteles, which would've been a great dish if the chops weren't over cooked. The sauce and the grilled pineapple -- and the fact that I was starving -- made them edible, though. My wife's pollo en chile cacahuate was very spicy, so just know what you're getting into there. Oh, and tell them to just hold the complementary chips and salsa they start you with. They are terrible. Hard, flavorless chips and watery salsa. They really shouldn't serve them.